December
07
2:15 am

Putting Art Back in Fashion

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The documentary on legendary Bill Cunningham was mesmerizing.  But, underneath the wonderful glimpse into the enigmatic life of this original “street style” photographer, was the question of fashion’s relevance in the 21st century.

Fashion constantly reinvents, looks to other decades or eras for inspiration but, often, engenders a new look.  Looking back at fashion in the 20th century, each decade was identifiable: the Roaring 20s had the flapper dress, the 30s, in spite of the Great Depression, had superstars like Madame Vionnet and Mademoiselle Chanel, the bias cut, and innovative fabrics like nylon.  The 40s saw pantsuits and strong shoulders, perhaps in response to WWII.  The 50s – the Dior Look, period.  The 60s – the mini and hippie chic; the 70s – disco fever: maxis, platforms, and non-Western wear (like caftans a la Talitha Getty) become the norm.  The 80s ushered in acid washed and ripped jeans, fingerless gloves (thanks Madonna!), harem pants, and bandage dresses.  The 90s – grunge and minimalism.  Each look seemed to blend creativity with wearability.  If art reflects the zeitgest of an era, fashion is its tangible manifestation.

So what did the 21st century have to show for itself so far?  Hmm..bling.  Yes, there were stars – Tom Ford brought sexy back to the once stodgy House of Gucci and set the bar for sultry, not raunchy, fashion.  Marc Jacobs redefined quirkiness and American style.  But, apart from individual stars, if you remove brilliant marketing and styling, where is the art in fashion?  Isn’t art, which can simultaneously enthrall and push boundaries, necessary in fashion to take it to the next level?  Has it become so tamed by commerciality that it has lost its ability to inspire?  The one notable exception: the late Alexander McQueen, who created controversial, but wearable, art.  The New York Times recently profiled Jeremy Scott as Fashion’s Last Rebel – it’s sad that the article implied that, because he stays true to his vision, he is a rebel.

We are always bullish about fashion being wearable.  But where is our decade’s defining look?  With the post 2008 meltdown, does it mean that the first decade of this century’s fashion reflected a society of image without substance?  Or perhaps, not having a defined look means we are more individualistic.

Here’s a fun take on the history of fashion – since this video was created in the 80s, it stops there.

November
24
12:39 am

The 11th Hour Thanksgiving

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Thanksgiving is here and if you are a…ahem…procrastinator, this post is for you.  We have compiled some great resources to help you (why re-invent the wheel?) make a fabulous feast, whether you’re an unabashed carnivore or an avowed vegetarian/vegan.

Last-minute help brought to you by the geniuses at Epicurious: Gear Up for Thanksgiving.

Don’t eat anything that had a mummy or daddy? Check out this visually sumptuous and in-depth guide to making a killer (errr..no pun intended) meatless Thanksgiving: NYT Well’s Vegetarian Thanksgiving 2011

Want to enjoy Thanksgiving without the hassle of cooking? Check out these terrific restaurants doing Thanksgiving dinner fit to make the original celebrants proud.  NY Mag’s Get Out of the Kitchen

Ready to eat out but craving a non-traditional Thanksgiving meal? These spots bring it:

Fatty ‘Cue: Malaysian cuisine, family-style with seatings at 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. 50 Carmine Street (Bedford Street), (212) 929-5050.

Red Farm: buzzy, nouveau Chinese celebrates the Big Feast with their regular menu and some specials. In honor of the holiday, they’ll accept reservations. 529 Hudson Street (Charles Street), (212)792-9700.

Socarrat Paella Bar: Paella done up with a New World spin. Socarrat Paella Bar, 259 West 19th Street, (212) 462-1000.

SushiSamba: Latin-Japanese flavors turn Thanksgiving on its head, tastefully. 245 Park Avenue South (19th Street), (212) 475-9377; SushiSamba 7, 87 Seventh Avenue South (Barrow Street), (212) 691-7885.

November
15
2:18 am

Socially Conscious Shopping

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With the stock markets making us nauseous with their roller coaster rides, OWS taking over cities, and the Greeks playing out their own tragedy, shopping indeed has taken on Marie Antoinette overtones.

However, post 2008, a new movement, perhaps as a backlash to conspicuous consumption, seemed to be emerging, conscious consumerism: balancing the desire to acquire with a motive to give back. While some goods have only a veneer of altruism, some interesting brands have emerged that proudly reflect their social consciousness, whether it’s the environment, encouraging local artisans, or helping war victims, without becoming marketing gimmicks.

What separates these brands from others in the pack is that they don’t sacrifice craftsmanship, chicness, and quality.  And, we feel, their social consciousness is authentic.  Of course, feel free to disagree.

Suno - Kenyan fabrics interpreted in contemporary designs.

The North Circular - British knitwear from rescued Wensleydale sheep, and knitted by grandmothers…no kidding.

Muzungu Sisters – A retail online portal created by Tatiana Santo Domingo and Dana Alikhani to showcase exclusive artisan produced clothing from around the globe.

Loyale Clothing – Sustainable swimwear designed by Jenny Hwa in NYC, it’s organic cotton that’s built to work like its petroleum based brethern in the waters.

Pure Threads – collection created by Alberta Ferretti in collaboration with the actress Emma Watson.

Coco Rocha for Senhoa - Super chic  jewelry designed by supermodel Coco Rocha and made by survivors of exploitation in Cambodia.

October
14
2:50 am

Does Dress Matter?

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Many people have argued that talent, intelligence, or academic pedigree is sufficient to get noticed by the powers-that-be. The way they look, so long as they are neat and groomed, doesn’t really matter unless they’re in the public eye. We beg to differ.

Subtle cues in the corporate world can dictate whether you stay in corporate Siberia or snag the corner office. Thus, working in this environment, as a matter of logic, puts you in the public eye, with your audience being management, clients, and even colleagues. Clothing, then, isn’t merely a vehicle to reflect taste or, ahem, lack thereof: it’s the first line of attack in establishing your personal brand. This has never been more apparent than in client-driven industries, such as banking, law, consulting, sales, and public relations. Since it’s weird to introduce yourself with your curriculum vitae, your appearance becomes a calling card, a visual cue reflecting your personality, role and confidence. That’s not to say we advocate clones – not a good personal branding move either.

Since we’ve been around the corporate block ourselves, we decided to share some interesting sartorial queries:

I play in a garage band and trade equities during the day but I’d rather go naked than channel Gordon Gekko: err…how about slim cut shirts in subtle patterns?

I’m the youngest in my department but now oversee employees who’ve been there since the Great Flood – how do I convey that I’m not Selena Gomez?! Edgy jackets with modern cuts reflect your sensibility but not your age and make it clear you’re the boss.

Caveat: We will, however, NOT support wrap dresses that hug every curve…not a good shout out for yourself. Boxy suits that look like you have a carrying permit..only if you need that weapon.

GQ’s What to Wear to Work

October
04
5:12 pm

Made in China

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A lavish spread in September’s Vogue made it official:  China is the belle of the ball, being courted by the likes of Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, and Hermès.  Ralph Lauren ads prominently feature rising star Sui He, Liu Wen lands the coveted Estée Lauder contract, and Chinese models wow on the runways (why these models were scarce during previous shows is another post).   When the average Chinese luxury consumer spends $700 AN HOUR in Paris, despite gloom and doom in Europe and the U.S., there’s no wonder why China is on everyone’s mind.

While the Chinese fashionista is fabulously chic and knowledgeable about Western designers, they (and we) are getting excited by their local fashion scene.  And by local, we do NOT mean pieces made in China because it’s cheaper.  Without further ado, we present the trailblazers who are on our minds.  Each has their own intriguing aesthetic.  Some reference their rich, and sometimes turbulent, history.  Others push the notion of modern, and even post-modern, China.  While some are self-taught, many went to Central St. Martins  – where game changers are made.  Soon, “Made in China” just might have a new meaning.

Masha Ma: minimalism with a deconstructed feminine aesthetic is the buzz around London.

Uma Wang: tailored and structured pieces elevate knitting techniques to new levels.

Du Yang: blends surrealism with humor.

Qui Hao: sculptural knitwear that feels like, and often is, a limited collection.

Joseph Li: Margiela and Lanvin influences beckon, but the creativity is his own.

Zhang Da: one of the designers tapped by Hermès to design for their China specific luxury brand, Shang Xia, which speaks to China’s ancient history and traditions in a thoroughly modern context.   His own experimental line, Boundless Designs, embraces fashion as contemporary art.

September
18
4:55 pm

What to wear this Fall

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September is here and every major fashion outlet, blog, magazine, and talking head has heralded the latest trends and inspirations. We will leave prognostications and clever, poetic descriptions of Fall 2011 fashions to talented editors. But, at Spark, it is our duty to sift through the myriad options and help you get ready for work and for your life. And, without further ado…the Spark Fall 2011 Shopping Guide! Try not to crash our servers please.

August
15
10:07 am

Manners are Chic

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For those who love shopping (guilty as charged), walking into a luxury store can be a heady experience.  The luxe merchandise beckons, the well-appointed space seduces, and you’re well on your way to counting your purchases before they’re paid for…until you get a jolt that brings you back to Earth: the dismissive, perhaps standoffish behavior of the sales associate who judges your worthiness as a potential customer and finds you lacking.

Get over yourself, some may say.  This is a LUXURY store, not a big box discounter.  Aren’t luxury goods supposed to generate desire by creating a distance between the customer and the product?  You have to work to get the item, you have to be worthy to own it.  Of course, superior craftsmanship, brilliant design, and the best materials are assumed to justify the price tag.  And, isn’t the dismissive, standoffish behavior of sales associates part of creating this distance so that you lust after the product enough to open up your wallet?  Yeah…no.

Shopping in the post-Great Recession has fundamentally changed.  Sure, aspirational shoppers may be cooling their heels, but long-standing customers, many of whom are global citizens, continue to buy luxury items wherever they travel (our credit cards can attest to this).  While elitist attitudes may work in junior high-school, shopping is meant to be a pleasant experience.  Being polite goes a long way in continuing relationships with long-standing customers – they might not be loyal to a luxury store in one city, but may often frequent it (or something similar to it) in their hometown.  And, let’s not forget newer customers across the globe who are enthusiastically embracing luxury – be nice to them, and they (and definitely their wallets) will love you back.  A sales associate with a bad attitude or, worse, one who judges a customer based on their appearance, really goes against the luxury experience  – when was the last time a luxury spa or a chic restaurant treated its customers badly?  Exactly.